Top Brands Highlight Older Models, Durability

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Considering durability as a key objective and older and more diverse models on the track were the real strengths of London Fashion Week this autumn. The youngest of the Big Four fashion weeks is also one of the most cutting-edge and returned with 81 live shows alongside 32 digital presentations. Established designers this season included Bora Aksu, David Koma, Emilia Wickstead, Molly Goddard and Pam Hogg. rising stars SabiraChetLo, Masha Popova, Yuhan Wang and Edward Crutchley continue to impress. Here are just eight of the highlights of a strong talent showcase.

1.Pam Hogg

Glasgow designer/musician Pam Hogg was back with a strong show of her flamboyant haute couture alongside a more accessible ready-to-wear collection. Super wearable tailored jackets, jumpsuits and coveralls with paint splatter prints, were the first in her Fashion scout fashion show. Then, as you’d expect from a designer who counts Björk, Gaga and Debbie Harry among her clients, things got decidedly bolder as the runway moved on to vibrant colors and bolder, voluminous silhouettes, with extensive use of ruffled trim. As Pam Hogg has often said since the launch of her first collection in 1981, “once punk, always punk”.

2.Rixo

Rixo is loved for its easy-to-wear feminine shapes, original hand-painted prints and timeless silhouettes, created to flatter every woman, regardless of age, height or shape. The design duo Henrietta Rix and Orlagh McCloskey ensure that no pieces are mass-produced and use small family suppliers. Presented at the glorious Hop Exchange near London Bridge, RIXO’s SS23 collection was inspired by a trip to Goa, specifically Goa’s Latin Quarter. The area’s bright, bold buildings and Ca’Pietra tiles influenced the hand-painted prints. To keep things interesting, this collection features 60 new shapes, including more structured dresses with matching jackets and feminine shirts paired with matching skirts. They also introduced new details in this collection like elegant pink bodices, lace trims, sweetheart necklines and crochet.

3.David Koma

David Koma staged a vibrant Spring/Summer 2023 show on the streets of Shoreditch near his studio. The eclectic collection included biker jackets, denim pants, cowboy boots, lycra wetsuits and swimsuits, chainmail cut-out dresses. were all exposed. Colorful crystal embroidery, iridescent crystals and mirror plexi adorned the garments. The looks included petrol-inspired prints on asymmetric cut tops, stretch silk knit dresses, hand-woven macrame tops and skirts, a puffy summer trench coat and soft cashmere knits. And a series of structured dresses in electric Klein blue stood out.

4.Helene Anthony

Designed by Naeem Anthony, this brand is a melting pot of Eastern and Western culture. Hand-embroidered pieces are made from luxury fabrics like wool, cashmere and velvet. Sustainable vegan leather and sheer fabrics add a bold element to the collection. The collection includes beautiful, well-structured and oversized wide-shouldered overcoats and blazers, as well as flowing, low-cut long dresses with elegant tails. Naeem Anthony played with height and length, adding high and low waisted trousers and long and short skirts to add a playful element to the razor sharp British tailoring.

5.Edeline Lee

British-Canadian designer Edeline Lee has used sustainable practices since founding her label in 2014. All pieces are cut and made by hand in London and many fabrics are recycled. High profile fans of the brand include Alicia Vikander, Olivia Colman, Sharon Horgan, Sally Hawkins, Helen Mirren, Gemma Chan, Taylor Swift, Phoebe WallerBridge and Solange Knowles. In her latest collection, Lee experiments with drapes, bows and tassels and pays homage to female power in mythology, with nods to Medusa, the goddess Athena and Amazonian warriors. And as always, simple silhouettes, a precise fit and the designer’s beautiful signature Flou Bubble Jacquard fabric flatter every figure. The color palette, which includes scarlet, navy, lemon, and mint, is also a real winner.

6.Paul and Joe

The chic French brand’s Spring ’23 collection, designed by Sophie Mechaly, evokes a secret garden with magic mushrooms embroidered and printed on lush silks and embroidered maxi flowers blooming on long organza skirts. The garden’s gorgeous color palette ranges from limoncello yellow to pistachio green, marshmallow pink to coral orange and hot pink. Strapless heart-shaped dresses, a gorgeous flowing maxi dress with vertical stripes and a pastel blue silk trouser suit are the highlights.

7.Karina Bond

Emerging designer Karina Bond’s new “Cocktails in Nautilus” collection is inspired by a childhood exploring marine life. She translates the fluid, weightless movements of jellyfish and anemones into an eclectic line that uses bespoke fabrics in jewel-toned silk, velvet, organza and satin. Durability is a key aspect of the designer’s manufacturing process, with much of the collection created using laser-cut techniques, which minimize fabric waste, while satin and velvet have been woven, painted and dyed in small batches, avoiding mass production.

8.Timmy Chou at FJU Talents x Fashion Scout

FJU Talents, an annual platform showcasing emerging designers from Taiwan, selects four designers to present their capsule collection to Fashion Scout during London Fashion Week. The FJU Talents 2022 finalists are: Chao-Ruei Wu, Chia-Lin Hsu, Chi-An Yu and Timmy Chou. A fashion design graduate of Fu Jen Catholic University, Timmy’s collection is inspired by Taiwan’s indigenous cultures. The design concept attempts to reflect the boxy shape of traditional Austronesian tribal clothing in the silhouette. The shape of freedom of dress makes the fabric interact with the body and also symbolizes the natural and unrestrained temperament of Taiwan’s indigenous people.

An upcoming public event, London Fashion Week’s City Wide Celebration from Thursday 6th October to Thursday 13th October, will include designer Q&A sessions, workshops around zero waste crafts and recycling, musical performances in direct and deliveries of limited edition products. The line-up will include a BOSS party, presentations from Richard Quinn, Raf Simons and Roksanda, a new boutique from Marc Jacobs and AnOther Magazine will host a special party for Björk powered by Gucci.

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